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Faux Guinness
Option #1 by Trudy S
Production Manager, Harlequin Productions, Olympia, WA

We just closed The Weir in Olympia, WA.

We made de-alcoholized Guinness and it was AMAZING! It only takes two weeks to make to the point of serving on stage. Takes a few hours to 'cook' and bottle. You couldn't tell the
difference between it and the real thing....headed up like a real Guinness! Here's the recipe.

Faux Guinness

The thing most likely to mess up the experiment is having unsanitary equipment or
ingredients come in contact with your beer. All equipment should be soaked in a weak
cholorine bleach (unscented) solution. Usually this is 1-2 ounces per five gallons – probably a tsp. or so per gallon. Rinse afterwards in hot water and you should be fine. Your brew pot will probably be fine, since it will "cook" with the beer, but give it a good wash first. This is also the reason you boil the sugars and the water for the yeast (see below) ( I cleaned my kitchen sink REALLY well and turned my hot water heater to hot. I then used tap water and bleach to soak everything in my kitchen sink…seemed to work. I then rinsed with tap water really hot tap water (steamed coming out of tap! -)

Ingredients:

Six pack of Guinness
1 Tablespoon+11/2 Teaspoon Corn Sugar (available in brew stores)
2 Tablespoons+11/2 Teaspoon Dark Dry Malt Extract (also available in brew stores)
1 package ale yeast
1 tsp. Heading powder

Directions:

1 Tablespoon+11/2 Teaspoon Corn Sugar (available in brew stores)

2 Tablespoons+11/2 Teaspoon Dark Dry Malt Extract (also available in brew stores)

These are sugars that will give the yeast food with which to produce the carbonation you
want. I have some of each if you need some. Which is better is a matter of preference (or
snobbery - I like extract for philosophical reasons, but can't really taste any difference.)

Boil for 15 minutes in 1/2 cup of water (this is to prevent stray bacteria getting into your beer. Add then to the brew pot with your beer.

Six pack of Guinness

Put the beer and sugar into a large pot. Put the pot in an oven above 183 degrees. I understand that you should smell a fairly strong alcohol odor for the first 1/2 hour or so ( I
didn’t notice one), but the alcohol should boil off after that, leaving a brew with an alcohol
content of between .25 and .5 percent (orange juice has about .5 percent, I understand.)

It's then VERY IMPORTANT to cool the beer to under 80 degrees before you add yeast. If you don't, you'll kill the yeast. Set the pot in a sink full of ice and you should be good to go. Use a thermometer to be sure of your temperature.

1 package ale yeast

I don't think that you need worry too much about amounts here. There's not a whole lot of
yeast in a package, and it multiplies based on the amount of food available (the sugars listed above. If you have surplus, it dies early, that's all. I might be wrong about this, and you may find an excess of yeast sediment in the bottom of your bottles, but you could probably be safe in putting in as little as 1/4 of a package and still get good results. I'd be far more concerned with too few yeasts than too many.

Another important thing about yeasts. You'll probably want to rehydrate the yeast in 1/2 cup
of water that's been boiled and cooled to below 80 degrees (the container you use for the
yeast and water should be boiled too - pyrex glass or a canning jar). This will ensure even
distribution amongst the beer and give the yeast a good start. After you re-hydrate the
yeast, let it sit out for an hour or two, covered with a clean piece of foil or a sanitized canning lid.

If you have another pot (sanitized!) it'll probably work best to add the rehydrated yeast to it,
then add the de-alcoholed and cooled beer to that pot, which will allow the yeast to mix with
the beer without hands needing to touch them.

You'll probably want to use a funnel to get the beer into the bottles. This should (of course)
be sanitized. As should the bottles - I know they've just had beer in them, but brewers are
paranoid.

Boil your bottlecaps (you'll probably have to get new ones from the beer store - I can't
imagine that the old ones would have a good seal after they've been popped. Scot and Linda have (I think) an old butterfly-style capper to re-cap the bottles. Handle the caps as little as possible, but if your hands are clean, and you've been clean the rest of the way, I think you're just about there.

Store the bottles in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks, and see what you've got!

I know this is a lot of info, but it's really very easy. All you need to do is be aware of the
cleanliness issues, and all the rest is just fun. It'll be a lot of work for a six pack, better (I'm
guessing) when you do it for a larger quantity.

This sounds difficult...but it's not really. I had never made beer before in my life....and it only
took be about 3 hours from start to finish.

Oh...I forgot to tell you...the 6 bottle batch was just a tester to see if it would work.... when it did we actually did 2 cases. You lose about 1 bottle out of 6 from the 'cooking' process.

We did 16 shows and had enough for all the shows and the tech rehearsals too.

Option #2 by BJAMESMG:
We've used O'doul's Amber-a budwieser product for dark beers in shows. Just carefully pour the liquid into your bottles and you get a good looking beer thats almost alcohol free(.5%) and is not too unpleasant tasting. Here in Michigan it costs around $4.00 a six pack plus deposit. If I were to try to intensify its color I would use the brown icing coloring and stir up a batch of deep color, add a bit of this color to my empty bottles and then pour in the uncolored liquid.
 

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